Sayonara Japan

Wednesday, 7th September, 2011. By now I was nearly dead on my feet, so after a good nights sleep and a leisurely breakfast, I had an hour or so to explore the Ginza shopping area near the hotel. I had this idea of "Ginza bargain" in my head. Well, the street was full of the likes of Louis Vitton and Alfred Dunhill. It was great to visit the Apple store in Tokyo too. The product range continues to impress!

Eat your heart out Kirsty. This is the Apple Store in Ginza. Four floors of Apple. Yummy!

Good to see the King protea still rules

Self portrait

Then it was a bus ride out to the airport in good time. I had to fly JAL to Beijing as it was part of what Air New Zealand gave me when I booked. Concerned about my bike I had phoned Air New Zealand prior to my booking and was told JAL would charge me about $60 extra for the bike and a my premium card was not valid with that airline. I accepted this. However on trying to check my bike in the wanted to charge me $240. Naturally I was not happy, and trying to negotiate my way out of it didn't work. I was disappointed as I had worked really hard to ensure all the bits and pieces fitted together into an economical trip price. When I went to pay however, at a separate counter they said the charge had been changed to $160, and so I didn't feel so bad as it was only $100 more than I expected.

I had a shower, some fried potato wedges and a beer and felt better immediately. Once boarded, we sat on the tarmac for more than an hour before we finally got underway.

Beijing awaits me, and I am a little apprehensive. No tour guide to take me through crowded subways, or pick up the cash falling from my pockets, but hey, let's see how it goes.

Tokyo

On the Tuesday we visited the Imperial Palace, the electronics distict, and one of the market style areas, and managed to fit in a visit to a temple as well. I was fairy trigger happy with my camera, shooting from the hip at times.

The electronics shops are amazing. From tiny stores with a floor area of about 1 by 2m selling only one type of component through to multi-floor computer shops, it seemed you could buy just about any gadget or electronic part here. A couple of years ago I built my own computer, which still runs like a dream. But I had to order almost all the parts over the internet and it took several weeks to sort it all out. Right here I could get everything I want all in one go. A geek's dream shop really! I bought a remote control for the camera, so no more timer countdowns for the Christmas family shot.

Tokyo is impressively big, of course. But the the buildings themselves don't stand out as very big or impressive compared to other large cities in the world. However the sheer number and sprawl of buildings made a very strong impression. I enjoy looking for patterns in city scapes, so following on some earlier practise in Auckland I put together a rather hasty collection of photos I call "Patterns in Tokyo".

In one of the parks in Tokyo.

The temple I visited.

Traditional Japanese architecture - a Pagoda

The crowded market alleys.

The large gardens at the Imperial Palace are mostly just lawn with sculptured pine trees. Only the gardener is allowed on the lawn.

I succumbed to the call for western food and enjoyed a MacDonalds burger. That night it was Spanish tappas for dinner, followed by a trip up a 50-odd story building to a pub with a view at the top. This was very impressive. I was even more impressed to find the cost of two beers at NZ$80 when the bill came. I missed the bit about the "house charge". The view however was totally worth it.

Kyoko and I presiding over the Tokyo city-scape at a super expensive bar. It was worth it.

Lake Kawaguchi

I hoped the morning would bring some clarity, but it was not to be.

The view from my room. There is an old Japanese legend that says only the righteous can see the mountain. It's great don't you think?

Nevertheless we hired some mountain bikes to ride around the lake. I enjoyed the little trip, but was a bit disappointed to see what was, until very recently a lovely resort town that had fallen into a state of disrepair. There was this fantastic paved walkway all the way around the lake but it was very overgrown with weeds.

Me, by the lake.

And the gorgeous Kyoko.

There were some amazing little places along the way, where they say good things can happen.

At one stage our path ran out. But you can see the kind of disrepair the town is in.

The confers in the background were called "Gold Crest" in South Africa. I could not grow enough of them for sale. Unfortunately I have not found them in New Zealand yet. The Japanese appreciate good things!

By the afternoon the roads were open again, so the bus trip back to Tokyo was a better option than the train. This time it to the luxurious Park Royal in Shiodome. Connections in the travel industry are obviously useful. By this time my feet were really starting to hurt. I had decided to travel in my Five Finger shoes, but despite their comfort, the pressure of my 17kg backpack was beginning to weigh on me.

By this time I was starting to tuck into the Japanese food, and enjoying it. Still I tried to make sure everything I was eating was cooked, and not too spicy. A dinner at an izakaya type of restaurant. This was also a great experience.

Tokyo - day one

[This, and the next few posts are somewhat delayed, but I am trying to catch up now. Many social networking, blogging and photo sites are banned in China. It's taken a while to get around this. Not that I did it on my own, there is a whole industry around it - one just has to work out how it works, and you play a cat and mouse game picking the right private network servers.]

As soon as I had checked into the hotel in Narita I hit the hotel pool, a decent 18m lane pool, for a few laps. Not too many of course as I was tired. I then headed up to the top of the Crown Plaza to enjoy some Japanese beer and cuisine.

I had a bad sleep, but I suppose that was to be expected. I was up early to sort my bags. I had already checked my bike and a few extra things at the airport luggage store but suddenly realised I still had way too much stuff for a few days in Japan. So I headed back to the airport and checked a second bag in, and waited for my rendezvous with Kyoko. She is a professional travel guide and takes groups around Japan and the world. This time she was just taking me. I got to know her on Facebook about four years ago, and so finally we got to meet.

We boarded a train bound for Tokyo, which is about an hour from Narita. Our plan was to take a bus from there to Lake Kawaguchi at the base of Mt Fuji. However a typhoon had dumped copious amounts of rain on parts of the country and this meant the roads were closed. We had to wait for information about the road closures so we headed for a nearby shopping area.

My first foray into a Tokyo shopping area while waiting to find out what was happening with the buses. There was a cacophony of sellers trying to outdo each other with megaphones. The photo doesn't capture the noise!

On the way back to the station there was more noise. Some 'right-wingers' where proclaiming something about Nippon being the preferred name for Japan.

It soon became clear that the roads to the mountain were closed for the day. However there was the option of a train. So somewhat delayed and facing a slightly longer trip we got back on the train. It was a good way to see the countryside. I had hoped for the same in the UK, but there the trains tend to ride inside banks and hedgerows not affording much of a view. In stark contrast this train went straight through the villages. For the most part the houses were 3 - 5 metres from the train, but at times the buildings were less than two metres and the occasional bay window or lean-to almost touched the carriages. Certainly the garden bushes did at times.

I was fascinated how all the houses I saw were built on the level, and each property was terraced so there was never any slope. I soon realised though, that this land once just consisted of rice paddies and they of course have to be level. Now much of the land was covered by houses, but any empty piece of land was used to grow rice, or vegetables, no matter how small. I don't think I saw a single lawn on the whole trip. The houses are small, and they take up most of each property, with just a narrow strip of scrubby weeds between houses.

This area had a larger than usual section under rice. You can see the effect of the recent heavy rainfall.

A typical vegetable patch

Soon we reached the tourist village at Lake Kawaguchi (no motorcycles or shoes to be seen however) at the base of Mt Fuji. The mountain was shrouded in cloud, so I would have to wait for a good view.

A delightful evening out at a local barbeque style restaurant followed. Hot pots in the centre of each table allowed diners to 'braai' their own meat and veggies. Great food, beer and company! A great experience.

Flight footnote

[These next few posts are somewhat delayed - once I got to China I was no longer allowed access to a number of websites including Blogger/Blogspot and Picasa Web for the photos. It has taken a while to circumvent the "Great Firewall of China". Now that I have done so, I have some catching up to do.]

I had a good flight, and I am now comfortable ensconced in my hotel in Narita. Getting a window seat is key for me, as I can cocoon myself against the wall, with my neck pillow, and head phones. I watched three movies, built a website (sorry it's been so slow LW), and wrote a blog post.

I joined Koru club just before I left as my Gold membership had expired. Not quite as good and pretty expensive, but by the time I've costed in the free meals, airport internet and reduced baggage charges it is half paid for. The rest of the cost can be put against pure convenience, quicker check-in, and priority service all around. And if my flights are ever delayed the sanctity of the lounge will be well worth it. You also get priority re-booking. And my year's subscription should see me through to my dream trip through Europe next year. But let's get through this one first, aye.

I like flying Air New Zealand too. No dramas with the bike (never again Malaysia Airlines). And the food was superb. I mean really, really good.

First impressions of Japan are amazing. I previously wrote in this blog that "London is intoxicating". Well, I have to say that Japan is sublime. I might just stay here, everyone is so polite. I wish people the world over would treat strangers with such respect. And then there is Sapporo beer. Somewhat stronger than the the old EnZed brown. Not to mention heated toilet seats, and rather sensible electronically managed toilet sanitation techniques. I have rarely felt happier.

On my way back from Cairns I had promised myself that this trip would be my last for a while. But like all good trips, they seem to be addictive. Hi, my name is Jack, and I am on the road again.

Rules about keeping a travel blog

The first rule about keeping a travel blog is not to get behind. Once you are behind, it seems to become too big a job, and you end up not doing anything. The second rule is to not get to hung up about typos and grammatical correctness. It just takes too long. The reader must take what they get, or nothing at all.

And the first blog of the trip is usually the longest and the hardest, because you have to set the scene. After that you can just hurl some snippets into the web-form, and away you go. So this is an attempt to get a head start on the blog. I know it will never get written once I am back in Palmerston North, so it has to be done enroute.

So right now, I am sitting on a plane between Auckland and Narita. Yep, I'm headed for the largest city in the world. Actually, I am enroute to Beijing to compete in a triathlon, but somehow the race seems incidental. I'm having a little adventure, and so far, so good!

I qualified for the World Age Group Triathlon Championships for the sprint distance in February at Kinloch, and then for the standard distance in Wellington a week after Ironman New Zealand. I chose the standard distance. I had high hopes of getting really fit over the winter and presenting myself in top condition in Beijing. After my fitness debacle in Edinburgh last year, I had promised I would only come back to this level when I was ready. However, it works like this, first you qualify to represent New Zealand, and shortly after that you are required to acknowledge your participation with Tri NZ. And therein is the start of a slippery slope. You need to pay a licence fee, and then a race entry fee, and then you need to book your flights early to get a good price, and then of course your accommodation, visa, pay for your immunisations, and so it goes. And all this happens in the 3 to 6 months before the race. By the time you realise your training has gone awry, its too late to get yourself into decent condition, and you are pretty much financially committed.

In early June, after a month of work distractions and the flu I found myself at Challenge Cairns, for my third ironman-distance event of the year. I'd had a great run over the previous six months, but I took it pretty easy and I walked most of the run leg. Despite that however, my knee flared up, in a repeat of what happened after the 2009 Challenge Wanaka. That time I could not run for eight months, but despite a number of specialists, x-rays and and MRI, it remained undiagnosed. It's peculiar as apart from these two times I have never even had a twinge.

This time it has not been nearly as bad and I have managed to get about 6-10km running in a week. Yes, I know not material for preparing for the speed event of your life. But hey, that's just the way it goes. And a little training always goes a long way.

So in some respects the race has become almost secondary. I'm on a trip. I booked everything myself after not finding joy with the TriNZ travel agent who couldn't meet any of my flight requirements and tried to sell me an accommodation package costing over $1000 more than what I could book at the same hotel myself, way more than double. There was also a team flight, but it leaves at night meaning I would be awake for a day, spend a night on a plane, suffer a rather inconvenient transit stop, and arrive in Beijing totally exhausted with less than a week to recover. No way Hosea, I fly gentleman's hours. I leave in the morning and arrive at my stop over in the afternoon, and then I go to bed. A few days later I repeat for the second part of the trip, and I arrive as fresh as a daisy. Almost. Well that's the plan anyway.

So I decided to stop over in Tokyo for 4 days. I can adjust to the timezone, and acclimatise to the heat with a lower risk of TD (work it out). Besides, Japan presents itself with a special and unique opportunity. So, I look forward to the next four days with enormous anticipation.

Cairns footnote

My most devoted fan

Just after I entered the departure lounge in Cairns a four year old boy ran up to me with a huge smile and threw his arms around my leg and wouldn't let go. Somewhat taken aback I tried to shake myself free, at first thinking he had mistaken me for his dad. It's happened before - kids that high have trouble looking up. But then I realised who he was.

During the race he had wandered out onto the run course, and seemed to have an obvious interest in me. I stopped, bent over and had a little chat to him. "Your funny" he said. I immediately decided this wasn't the time and place for the apostrophe conversation (don't worry if you live in New Zealand and don't understand that).

He also wanted to know what I was doing. I tried to explain about the race, but he knew all that. He really wanted to know what was up with my hair. But I couldn't linger too long. We had both enjoyed the conversation.

It turns out anyway, that this was a Kiwi kid from Auckland and his dad was in the race, and had also been at Wanaka. He had seen me race before, and I was now one of his best friends.

I stand in awe.

Overnight fun

The day after I booked my overnight accommodation at an airport motel in Auckland I saw it featured in the paper because it was so dirty, and the service was so bad. What to do, as I had already paid for it?

I decided to risk it, and after a phone call to the motel to ask where my promised shuttle was they eventually arrived. I could see what issues were. I had dinner there as there was no where else to go, but stayed away from the chicken and the stews, hoping that fried fish might be better. I also had trouble believing I was in New Zealand, so may Paul Henry never go there.

Then just as I was dozing off for the night, the fire alarm went off. At first I thought it was a car alarm outside my window, so I rolled over and pulled my pillow over my head. Then came the knock on the doors down the passage, and soon we were all out in the 13 degree night while the fire service investigated. I'm not sure what the problem was but it seemed there was no fire, and we were soon back in our beds. Too soon though it was 5.30am and I was off to the airport. Only to wait, and wait, as the small planes were not leaving the airport in a hurry due to the fog.

Recovery

Once home I thought I would try and catch up on some work, but I could feel a small nap coming on. I slept until lunch, then slept all afternoon, and slept all night too. I may not be done yet either.

My legs were hurting in the night in a way that they haven't hurt before. At least the blisters seem to be settling down.

Another point of concern is my left knee. After Challenge Wanaka 2009 where I ran my (still) best ironman-distance marathon my knee started to hurt after the race and became quite puffy. It was fine before and during that race, and this was my most debilitating injury ever. I could hardly run for eight months, and I thought my career was over. Then suddenly it disappeared. Well after Cairns where I completed my slowest marathon ever, I felt the same pain and the same sort of swelling, although to a much lesser degree. Thankfully though it seems to be settling down.

My ankle seems good, so even though my decision to use my training shoes with inserts was a painful one, it had the desired effect.

I'm not in a hurry to get out and train again. I have three months to Beijing, and my base fitness seems OK. So I will wait a couple of weeks and then ease into my swimming and cycling. I'll be able to use an intensive approach over the last six weeks to get me into good shape, and I will leave most of my running until then. I have to try and peak for Beijing, and then again two and a half months later for the selection qualification races in Auckland in November. These are for the age group champs the following November in Auckland. The competition will be fierce.